Key West and Dry Tortugas

Sunset at Mallory Square

Greetings from Key West.  We have been here since the 17th and will be staying until at least the 5th.  Sarah came in on the 19th and spent ten days with us that flew by.  We walked miles in old Key West seeing the sights--sunsets at Mallory Square (always a show with the street performers), shopping on Duval Street, several trips to West Marine (I think Tom has visited that store at every stop.  I recommend buying stock!), the Mel Fischer Museum, the lighthouse and southern most point in the 48 states.  On top of all that we tested many of the wonderful restaurants.  One very memorable meal was breakfast at Blue Heaven where the lobster eggs benedict is sinful!   John and Kib Michener, long time friends from St. Louis who happened to be in Key West on the 20th  and 21st, met up with us there and at dinner.  Was great to be able to spend time with them.

Resident at Blue Heaven.  Click to enlarge and check out the chick peeking out from under  mama's right wing.

We headed out to the Dry Tortugas to visit Fort Jefferson on Friday, the 23rd.  Fort Jefferson was built in the 1830's, a massive structure constructed of 16 million bricks and granite spiral staircases.  While it was occupied, it was never really used as a defensive fortress.  It is most famous as the Civil War prison where Dr. Mudd, who treated John Wilkes Booth for his broken leg following Lincoln's assassination, was sentenced.  The tour of the fort is fascinating.  Walking around the top (one mile total) provides incredible views and quite a feeling of isolation.  We anchored in the harbor for two windy nights.

Fort Jefferson on Garden Key

Tom and Linda standing on the top of Fort Jefferson.  Raydiance a tiny speck in the harbor.

 The second day we motored over to Loggerhead Key, tied to a mooring ball ( a challenge with windy conditions) and dinghyed to the island.  We spent the day snorkeling.  Great fun.  "We" now includes a fourth, Mike Lawrence, a young man Sarah has met here.  He and his parents are from the outer banks in North Carolina and they are spending the month in Key West as this is the slow time in their business. He was game to come out on the trip to the Tortugas.  We enjoyed his company.   

Lighthouse on Loggerhead Key

A close-up of the coral "sand"

One of the highlights of the trip to the Tortugas was a visit to our boat by five good-size nurse sharks.  We first noticed them the night Sarah and Mike dinghyed back from the fort after sunset.  They kept us company the whole time we were at anchor.  Way cool.

Nurse shark under boat at Garden Key harbor--Fort  Jefferson

The trip back from the Tortugas was BUMPY.  The forecast 2-3 foot seas overnight turned into 4-6 footers.  We were  pounding into them.  Between the ride and constant watch for crab pots ( two new four letter words!) we were all glad to reach a marina and tie up for the night.

For the last few days we have been at a marina on Stock Island, the next island east from Key West.  It has a resort feel and Mike and Sarah have enjoyed the pool and kayaking-though they prefer the night life atmosphere of old town.  Sarah left yesterday and I miss her already.  I'm hoping it's a mild winter in the midwest so she will get a spring break and be able to join us around Easter.

View from restaurant at Key West Harbour Yacht Club on Stock Island

Sarah and Mike

Happy New Year everyone!

Tarpon Springs to Marco Island

A great picture taken by Tom.  This dolphin swam alongside the boat for  several minutes.

The last week has been so interesting and very diverse.  After two days and three nights of totally indulging in Greek food and drink,  we left Tarpon Springs and headed to Longboat Key--a barrier island west of Tampa Bay.  The dolphins are a daily sighting.  I am always thrilled to spot them.

Tom on trail on Cayo Costa.

We spent the night at anchor in a bay off Longboat Key and headed to Cayo Costa (Cay of the Coast) Island the next day.  Cayo Costa State Park is located here and we had a wonderful day exploring.  We took the dinghy to shore and hiked the island trail to the beach.   This was the first chance we have had to walk the beach  and enjoy the water and sand between our toes.  Still not quite swimming temperature, but getting there!  We found some shells and brought them back to the boat to decorate our 18" Christmas tree.  The ranger told us that we could take the dinghy over to a small bayou and possibly see manatee.  We rowed in the bayou so as not to scare or harm them and we did see at least two.  It was very hard to snap a picture as they surface for only a short time, but Tom managed to get at least the shape.  As we entered the bayou, we heard all kinds of splashing.  We of course thought this was the manatee, but it turned out to be jumping fish called black mullets.  They were amazing.  Often jumped straight up in the air 2 to 3 feet or spurted out in 3 consecutive leaps.  It was hard to concentrate on the manatee bubbles with all their commotion.

Yes!!!!!

Christmas aboard Raydiance.

There really is a manatee there.

The anchorage at Cayo Costa was very scenic, but VERY windy.   We were happy to leave the next day and head to a marina, Burnt Store Marina,  outside of Punta Gorda.  There we were visited by Dan Garland, a friend of brother Rich's who happened to be in the area on business.  Terry and Karen Swark came to see us and we enjoyed catching up with them over dinner.  Tom served on the boy scout board with Terry when Terry was the council scout executive of the Boy Scout Council of Greater St. Louis. 

Raydiance at Burnt Store Marina

We learned a valuable lesson while traveling to this marina.  We were following lat/long coordinates in a guide book that led us to the channel entrance.  Our navigation charts did not name the entrance for Burnt Store, so we just assumed (never a good idea) that these were the correct numbers.  When we reached depth readings of less that 5 feet, we called the marina to ask about their channel and were informed to GET OUT OF THERE as we were in a very shallow channel about a mile too far north.  Luckily, Tom maneuvered us back out and all ended well.  But next time we will call the marina to verify the coordinates.

We are now anchored in Smokehouse Bay in Marco Island.  We are not in Kansas anymore!  Whew!  This place is beautiful and shouts money, money, money.  The weather has been partly sunny and around 80 degrees.  Life is good!  Saturday we leave for Key West.  Sarah flies in on Monday.  Will be great to have her with us for Christmas.  Merry Christmas to all of you!!

The Esplanade area of Marco Island

View from our anchorage at Marco Island

t.

Crossing the Gulf

The greeter at Tarpon Springs docks.

WE DID IT!  We safely crossed the Gulf of Mexico and are at port at the city docks in Tarpon Springs. The weather windows for crossing have been few and far between this season, so we took the leap on a moderately okay day.  We anchored behind Dog Island just off the coast from Carrabelle Monday night and left in the company of Frank and Cindy aboard the power cat Peacekeeper at 3 a.m.  Even with a 3/4 moon, it is mighty dark at 3 in the morning.  Eleven hours later we were tied up at Tarpon Springs.  The first half of the journey was bumpy as we were headed into 3 to 4 foot waves.  But about halfway, the seas became more friendly and by the time we were two hours out of Tarpon,  it was down to one footers and very welcome.  Sunrise was a beautiful sight that day.

Sunrise on the Gulf crossing.  This was taken through the wing doors.  The small dots are salt crystals.

Tarpon Springs is an interesting little town.  We are tied up at the city docks which are in the sponge section of town.  In the late 1800's, Greeks came here to harvest the sponges in the gulf.  They had the knowledge to gather the sponges by diving whereas prior to that it was done by raking with long poles while looking overboard from the boats through glass bottom buckets.  At one time there were 200 sponge boats working here.  Now there are many souvenir shops and lots of Greek restaurants.  We have definitely gorged on the Greek food and drink!  And of course, we are now in possession of several sponges as well as Greek cheese, olives, and wine.

Sponge boat at dock.  Notice the sponges threaded together.  After removing the membranes, this is how they were stored to dry and be out from underfoot on the boat.

Greek Orthodox church and school in the historic part of town.

Too funny.  Had to shoot this picture!

A storm blew in Wednesday afternoon with wind gusts well into the 30mph range.  We were mighty glad to be securely tied at a dock.  Today, Thursday, is sunny but still quite windy.  We are watching the wind/wave reports to see whether to move on or stay one more day.  Oh darn, more gyros for lunch!

Entering the ICW

What a day!  We were underway by 7 a.m. and crossed Mobile Bay which was only slightly choppy--about 2 foot waves.  We passed this shrimp boat as we left the bay.

  Upon entering the intercoastal waterway (ICW), we were immediately greeted by dolphins.  Sometimes just one or two and other times up to six.  What a great omen!  I tried to get a picture, but by the time I clicked the shutter, they were underwater and zooming away.  They are such marvelous creatures!

Entering the ICW

Within minutes of entering the ICW we met a Coast Guard boat coming toward us.  They motioned us to slow down (which we thought was odd since we were only doing 7 mph) and radioed to tell us they were planning to board us.  YIKES!  Turned out to be a routine inspection.  I think there were some new recruits on board and we happened to be the "boat of the day".  All went well and we passed with a gold star (even have the yellow paper to prove it!) so if we get stopped again we can show that paper and hopefully it will satisfy the next crew.  Twas a bit unnerving until we realized why they were coming aboard.

On to Pensacola Bay--a VERY large bay--and all kinds of military activity.  There were airplanes flying in formation,  a large ship surrounded by smaller vessels practicing water rescues of parachuters (water 56 degrees---BRRRR!), and helicopters buzzing overhead.  It was hard to keep an eye on the water markers with all that going on.

Coast Guard ship on military exercise
(This is NOT the one that stopped us.)

Finally on to Fort Walton Beach where we just happened to end up at the same dock as Ken and Barb (the Texans aboard "Loop Dreams"--yes, Alice,  the domino players!).  A long day, but we need to be in Carabelle by Sunday to meet Tom's brother, Rich, as he is joining us to do the Gulf crossing.

Barrier island off Alabama coast.  So nice to see the sandy beaches.  Now if it will just warm up!

Red day mark.  The numbering system on these markers does not coordinate with ICW miles, so it is taking a bit of adjusting to read charts which use the day mark numbers and match up with the guide books that use mile marker numbers.  I'll change that system when they put me in charge!

The Battleship Alabama in Mobile Bay

   

Today is Tuesday. We arrived back Sunday late from a week in Farmington, Thanksgiving with family, and lots of good visits with friends and daughter.  The time went quickly.  We had hoped to be underway on the intercoastal today, but the winds were strong and the bay was  rough.  So we decided to tour the battleship Alabama instead.  Compared to today's aircraft carriers, it is small.  But standing on the deck  

looking down at the waterline, it seems mighty big!

(If you click on the photos, you will get a larger view.)

The battleship Alabama in Mobile Bay

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Captain Tom

The 16 inch gun turrets

Now this is what you call anchor chain!
Can you tell how balmy the weather is????

The museum grounds also have many airplanes.  I had to have a picture taken in front of this B25.  My dad  was the pilot of a B25 in WWII.    At a reunion many years later, he crawled in and sat in the pilot's seat once again.  I remember that he  commented on how the plane must have shrunk!

Commenting issue solved

Tom and I arrived back in Farmington this evening after a long drive from Mobile.  Sarah and I have been working on the comment issue for the blog and I think we have it solved.  If you choose to comment,  you will need to click on the word "comments" at the end of the blog post.  It will then open a comment box  and you can write your comment in the box.  Next you will have to pull down the "select profile" tab and select "name/URL".  When it opens you only need to put your name (or you can choose the anonymous option).  You do not need to  put anything in the URL line.  Then click " publish".  The screen will take you back to the top of the blog, but you are not done!  Scroll down to the bottom of that posting and you will need to verify with one of those squirrelly type words and then click on publish again.  This time it will publish the comment and tell you that it has been published.  There must be an easier method, but we found this one worked.  Good luck.  We'd love to hear from you.

Arriving in Mobile

Raydiance, Something Special, Free to be, and Brown-Eyed Girl  rafting

    A big thank you to all of you who are keeping us in your prayers.  We spent Tuesday and Wednesday night at  anchor rafted with the boats pictured above.  Storms, including tornadoes, went just north and just south of us.  We weathered it fine with some wind and heavy rain and a few fine games of "Oh Hell". When the weather cleared we took a dinghy ride up the creek into Three Rivers Lake.  In the far reaches of the lake we found the trees that must have been the inspiration for Disney's Fantasia trees.  Big old cypress trees hanging with Spanish moss, wide multiple roots sticking out of the water and ghostly holes in the trunks.  

Brown pelicans

Shanty sailboat--not really
sure how this one is staying
afloat!

After leaving this anchorage, we intended to go directly to Mobile, but Mother Nature had other plans with howling winds from the north.  So we spent another night at anchor about 12 miles north of the bay entrance.   We are now seeing brown pelicans and seagulls everywhere.  Also palm fronds are appearing along the shore. Beginning to

                                                         look like the south.

  

About to enter Mobile Bay

Swedish ship in Mobile Bay

Loading dock on Mobile Bay

Tugs helping container ship coming
into Mobile Bay.  Check out the name
of the ship !

 Today we finally came to Mobile.  About 5 miles upstream, we saw what we thought was an otter swimming in front of us across the Mobile River.  After checking it out with binoculars, we realized it was a bobcat.  Who says cats don't swim?  I have been very concerned about Mobile Bay,  so I took that as an omen that all would go well.  And it did.  The bay was relatively calm and it was amazing to be a tiny speck among the big boys pictured here.  Mobile is a busy harbor with ocean going vessels coming, going, loading, unloading.  The bay is surprisingly shallow--only about 9 feet deep--so it can get whipped to a frenzy quite easily.  But today it was a nice ride and lots of fun. Captain Tom was in seventh heaven with a grin on his face throughout the ride in the bay. Tonight we are meeting Greg and Kate  (aboard Grianan) for a night on the town--seafood and gumbo.  Will leave tomorrow (Sat) for a week in Farmington.

Downtown Mobile

More of the big boys

Columbus to Demopolis

 Columbus travelers, this should look familiar.  We rented a car in Columbus, MS and ventured out to Waverly Mansion--once a 50,000 acre cotton plantation.  Our tour guide was the woman who lives in the house with her father.  The huge magnolia is on the front lawn.  Notice Tom standing under it for an idea of size!

We really enjoyed Columbus.  A very nice marina and wonderful restaurants in town.   Hucks and Jay Brussards are must stops here.

After leaving Columbus, we only traveled about 35 miles to Pirate's Marina Cove.  Quite a difference from Columbus--very rustic, but adequate.  At this point we were traveling with three trawlers,  Jeff and Linda aboard Jeremiah (Nokomis,Florida),  Kerm and Chris aboard Southern Belle (St. Paul, MN), and John and Mary aboard Passport (Mackinaw City, MI).  We walked a Mississippi/Alabama mile ( really 2 or more)  to the lock to see a museum about the Tenn-Tom waterway and  the snagboat Montgomery (pictured above).  This boat was only retired about 30 years ago.  We have seen a few "deadheads"--term used for logs sticking out of the water--in the channel.  Everyone ahead radios their position, so we luckily haven't had contact.  Makes you wish the snagboat was back in service!

Next night we anchored about 40 miles down river at Sumpter.  The wind was blowing and the anchorage was not large, so we all rafted.  To keep from swinging we put out several anchors.  Here Tom and Jeff are dropping an anchor from Southern Belle which was rafted next to Raydiance.  Interesting anchoring technique!  The winds died down that night but the temperature also dropped to the upper 20's.  I'm beginning to think the abbreviation AL is really for Alaska, not Alabama.  The following morning we had frost on the windshield and on the front deck, which was VERY slippery!

Leaving early from the anchorage, we headed out in moderate fog.  This is where radar is great.  Later in the morning we passed the white cliffs at Epes.  We had read about these so we were prepared with the camera.  The cliffs go on for a few miles and are brilliant white limestone. Interesting that the opposite bank is just mud.  Makes you wonder if the cliffs were one time a reef.                                                                      

                                               
Tom and I parted from the others and anchored at Rattlesnake Bend-a channel that winds off the main river.  Lifestyle II and Seaquest joined us there.  Helen and Busse aboard Seaquest "dinghyed" over for drinks.  They are on a 36 foot sailboat and came across the Atlantic from Sweden.  They have been  living aboard for three and a half years.  Very interesting people.  Originally planned to sail around the world, but circumstances changed so they decided to do the loop once they got to the western hemisphere.  And we thought this was adventurous!

We slept late on Friday and Tom made his famous four hour bacon for breakfast.  Then we headed to Demopolis where we are now.  This marina has added a new basin this year which it is very protected and has beautiful facilities.  Would highly recommend this stop.  From here on down we will be mostly anchoring as there are no more marinas.  We plan to leave early tomorrow morning (Monday) and arrive in Mobile on Thursday or Friday.                                                            

On the hook

Amazing!  We are anchored in a tiny cove about 60 miles north of Demopolis, AL and I have an internet signal.  We are rafting with three other boats--Jeremiah, Southern Belle and Passport.  It was quite breezy when we anchored so we have several anchors out.  Some  were quite interesting to set.  Three other boats have come in, but I guess they thought four was enough to raft as they have anchored apart.  I don't have a very strong signal, so I will add pictures next time.
 Just wanted you to know that I have changed the setting for comments.  This should allow those of you who were having trouble with comments being accepted.  If you still have problems, let me know by email and I'll try another solution.  Also check out the last few blogs.  I have added more pictures now that I am getting techie!!

Upper Tennessee-Tombigbee

                                                               
Photos taken at Joe Wheeler during the rendezvous.  Mornings were usually very foggy, but cleared to high 70's by mid-morning .  T
                                                             

We spent Friday, Oct. 28, at Florence, AL so we could watch the 7th series game clearly.  Yea Cardinals!  What a series.  Left Florence Saturday and spent the night in a beautiful cove on Pickwick Lake just a few miles before the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway entrance.  Then Sunday we truly headed south.  There are 12 locks on the Tenn-Tom with the first having the highest drop--85 feet.  I have posted pictures we took of Wilson Lock which is on the Tennessee River to give an idea of that height.  Wilson has a rise/fall of 93 feet.  The remainder of the locks in the Tenn-Tom are about 30-45 feet drop.  We have been traveling along with various other loopers so often the lock is full of boats.  We spent two nights in Bay Springs Lake which reminded us a lot of the coves by Kenlake.  We had perfect weather (although it has been very cool at night-in the 30's)  and gorgeous sunsets.

 As we have been traveling we have come across the shanty boat (pictured above) first on the Tennessee and now on the Tenn-Tom.  Believe it or not, they began in Pittsburgh.  We went through a lock with them the other day and they told us they are going to Mobile or until their money runs out.  The raft is made from four fifty gallon drums, wood and tarps, has a small outboard on the back, and two chickens aboard. Heard that caused quite a stir when they pulled into Grand Harbour and the chickens decided to get off on the dock!  The young woman on board is on her second man.  Said the first one drove her crazy!!!!  Guess it's good Tom and I have a little more room to spread out!
Yesterday we pulled into Aberdeen Marina (MS) and are staying here again today as the weather is nasty.  We used the courtesy car (I'll have to do a whole blog on courtesy cars!) and along with another looper couple, Greg and Kate Pfleger aboard Grianan, from NJ went to a recommended restaurant called The Friendship House.  Since directions were a bit complicated the local sheriff who happened to be at the marina store offered to escort us part way there.  Now that's what I call southern hospitality.  Linda, Nancy and Sheila, we went right past that beautiful white columned mansion on the edge of town.  Tomorrow we head to Columbus where I want to show Tom the Waverly Mansion and eat at that cajun restaurant we enjoyed last spring.
Thanks to daughter, Sarah, for reminding us we had a chip reader so we now can bring you pictures. Question for Bob.  Did you say I should limit the pictures to 800 pixels or 80?  Slight difference!