Ohio River and Kentucky Lake--Coming Home

Confluence of Mississippi and Ohio Rivers

Making the turn where the Mississippi and Ohio Rivers meet near Cairo, Illinois, not only did the color of the water change but the current also.  We went from a 4-5 mph advantage to a 3-4 mph disadvantage.  Slugging up the Ohio now at 5 mph, we passed dozens of tows both fleeting and on the move.  We managed to get to our anchorage at MM964 on the Ohio River without being hit by the storm that had been chasing us all day.  When I say the anchorage was on the Ohio River I mean ON the Ohio River--not in a cozy cove.  Just downstream was the construction site of the new Olmstead Lock and Dam that will eventually replace lock and dams #52 and #53.  We pulled out of the channel far enough to be well away from tow traffic and the current.  After Taxes rafted with us, also dropping their anchor for added security.  As we watched, the storm split and passed on both sides of the river leaving us with a beautiful double rainbow.

What an omen!

That night we had a rousing game of Oh Hell! with both boat crews.  Great fun, much competition, and several "oh hell"s!

Tuesday we were hoping to make Green Turtle Bay on Lake Barkley, but it was going to depend on how we hit the locks.  Lock #53 was no problem as the wickets were down and we sailed right over them.  We couldn't believe our luck when we reached #52 to find no wait.  We owed this good fortune to two other boats that had been waiting for over two hours.  Since pleasure craft is allowed to pass through the locks every third opening,  they had held our place in line.  Tom and I put Alice and David to work and we just relaxed!

Alice holding the line on the bow.

David at the stern.

After the locks, we passed by Fort Massac, a replica of an 1802 American fort, near Metropolis. 

Fort Massac State Park on the banks of the Ohio River

Then it was on to Paducah.  Several loopers have stayed overnight at the public dock here, but we chose to keep going.  Paducah's waterfront is lined with dry docks--mostly servicing towboats.  The American Queen, one of the few excursion riverboats still traveling the rivers, was docked at Paducah as we passed through.

The American Queen--a grand lady!

Numerous dry docks at Paducah

At Paducah, we left the Ohio River and turned onto the Tennessee River.  Once again, the color of the water improved and the current lessened.  Our next lock was either the Kentucky Dam Lock or the Barkley Lock.  Kentucky Dam Lock had just reopened the day before after being closed a month for maintenance.  It generally handles the large commercial traffic while Barkley gets smaller tows and pleasure craft.  However, our luck was holding.  For when we called Kentucky Lock to see about the wait, they informed us that although they were open, they were only taking small tows and pleasure craft today. They told us to come on and they would be ready for us.  Catching two locks just right in one day is a small miracle.  Being able to use Kentucky Lock instead of Barkley saved us 17 miles!

Kentucky Lock has a lift of 56 feet.

The lock doors opened and we
were in beautiful Kentucky Lake.

Cormorants at the arrival point
 lined up to welcome
us to Kentucky Lake

Again we put David to work--
this time holding a line around a floating bollard.

What a feeling to be back in home waters!  We cruised into the channel (that cuts through the Land Between the Lakes) connecting Kentucky Lake and Lake Barkley.  Turning into Green Turtle Bay, the premiere resort/marina in the area, we joined a few dozen loopers already in residence.

Docktails at Green Turtle Bay

The following day, Wednesday, Sept. 25, 2013, we celebrated the official changing of the burgee with old and new friends.  The champagne corks popped and the gold burgee replaced the white one that had been with us for 16 months and 9,650 miles.

Sharing the bubbly

Popping the corks

Changing the burgee

We did it!

Following the ceremony, we enjoyed a barbeque feast courtesy of John and Donna.  The After Taxes crew had taken the GTB courtesy car to Paducah during the day and sampled the offerings at the barbeque festival.  They returned with bbq ribs and chicken for a delicious picnic supper.

Thursday, we bid a temporary good-bye to After Taxes (we joined them for dinner again the following Monday) and headed to our favorite cove, Duncan Bay, on Kentucky Lake.  The weather was sunny and warm, so after anchoring we donned swimsuits and cooled off floating on noodles in the somewhat clear water.  Carol Anne, the loop boat next to us in GTB, joined us at the anchorage and Bob and Loretta dinghyed over for a wild game of dominoes that evening.

Large eagle or osprey nest
on shore near anchorage

Wild turkeys browsing on the shoreline.
We also saw deer, but out of camera range.

Friday morning after a delicious breakfast of blueberry/banana pancakes and the Johnson's $40/pound bacon (their grandchild's 4-H project auctioned at the county fair!!), we cruised the final leg of our journey to Kenlake Marina.  Bob and Brandon aboard their dinghys escorted us under the Eggner Ferry Bridge.  After we were secured in our slip,  we again celebrated the changing of the burgee with our good friends at Kenlake Marina. 

Captains Bob and Brandon
Our escort to Kenlake

Getting ready for the home stretch
under the Eggner Ferry Bridge

Bob capturing Tom pop the cork.

Brandon, Cindy, Ed, Roger, and a barely visible Mavis
watch as Tom attaches the gold burgee

We have had the opportunity to live a dream these past two years.  We are blessed to have had the time and health to do so.  The support of family and friends has been invaluable.  Thanks to all of you who shared with us in person and/or through the blog.  What a ride!

This is Linda signing off.  The Raydiance has landed!

The Mighty Mississippi

Three generations enjoying the ride
Kelsey, Missy, Judy

 Saturday, Sept. 20, Ron and Sue Burlison took the car ferry to Grafton to visit.  They drove us to Aerie's Winery high on a bluff overlooking the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi. The weather was perfect and the view was beautiful.

At Aerie's Winery
Rich, Sue, Ron, Tom, Missy, Kelsey, Judy, Gordon

What a view!

We left Grafton around 1 p.m. for the short (17 mile) run to Alton.  We really started to smell home when we reached the Mississippi River.  Sue and Ron decided to join us for this leg, so we had a crew of nine.  The bluffs around Alton are gorgeous as are the homes that sit on top of them.

Sue Burlison in "queen bee" seat.

Alton Bluffs

Raydiance turned over to crew
Ron, Gordon, Rich

Stately homes atop Alton bluffs

Judy pointed out the painting of the Piasa, according to Indian legend a large fierce bird capable of eating men.  The original painting was on a cliff destroyed during mining years ago.  The new painting is just north of Alton by the railroad tracks.

Piasa painting

Arriving at Alton, we found several loopers in port including Free at Last and Sun Gypsy. An environmental fair was in progress at the park next door.  We enjoyed the exhibits and,of course, the kettle corn.

Barred Owl at the fair

Royce and Gail Lemar from Farmington, who keep their boat part-time at Alton, arrived late afternoon and we went to dinner at MAC's in downtown Alton.  They are hoping to begin their loop in the next few years. Alton's marina has a great reputation among loopers and it is well deserved. The view of the suspension bridge from the marina at night is spectacular!

Alton Bridge at night

Sunday morning a St. Louis crew consisting of Kevin and Tina Kilpatrick and Dan and Julie Garland, friends of Rich and Missy's, arrived to ride with us to Hoppies.  They provided wonderful beverages, snacks and lunch as well as being delightful company.  Again we had a beautiful day to cruise past the St. Louis riverfront.

Confluence of Mississippi and Missouri Rivers

Helmswoman Kelsey
being advised by Dad, Rich

St. Louis Crew passing the Arch
(Thanks to John Benckenstein
aboard buddy boat, After Taxes,
for the photo)

Dan, Missy, Julie, Tina, Kevin

Another milestone 

We arrived at Hoppies around 3 p.m.  Hoppies is a "marina" near Kimmswick.  Actually it is a group of anchored barges, but it is the only stop along this part of the river.  They provide fuel, electric, water and a safe tie-up.  And they are only a mile from the Blue Owl, a restaurant featuring amazing pies including the levee high apple pie (as featured on Paula Deen's show).  Who could ask for more?  Wonderful Farmington friends, Linda and Jerry Roberts, Carla and Frank Taylor and David and Alice Johnson,  drove up to have cocktails and wish us well for the last leg of the journey. Dennis and Dorothea Kehm, who live in nearby Festus, joined us also.   David and Alice came aboard here and will stay with us to cross our wake.

Carla, Dorothea,Donna,Cathy and Tom

David, Frank, Alice, Linda, Carla and Jerry
enjoying the plush atmosphere of Hoppies on the River

Hoppies

That evening, a slide show about the history of steamboats in the area was presented to the boaters in the "recreation center", a.k.a. the shack on the last barge.  The program was actually very interesting.  Hoppies is not far off the channel and when tows go by, especially upbound, the boats really rock.  We made sure to have plenty of fenders out.

Monday morning we headed down our home waters--the Mississippi south of St. Louis.  The current there is very strong-- adding 5 mph to our progress.  Here are some of the sights along the river.

Camping on a Mississippi sandbar

Kennett's Castle which has hosted
the likes of Dick Cheney
Check it out on the internet.

Herd of deer grazing

Poor old Ste. Genevieve harbor
now completely silted in

Fall color beginning to show
in the trees on the limestone bluffs

Holcim Cement Plant
one of the largest in the world

Interesting homes on the bluffs

Infamous Mississippi whirlpools

Plattin Rock Boat Club
Our Mississippi River club

River gauge

Tower Rock

We anchored for the night behind an L-shaped wing dam at mile marker 78.  When we arrived four other boats were already anchored.  After Taxes rafted with us in order to save space. Thank heavens for a calm night because swing room was tight!  Not a picturesque anchorage, but secure. The next morning we had a mess of drift between our boats.

Yuck!

Tuesday morning we continued downriver keeping our eye on the weather radar as we were approaching a storm.  We passed Cape Girardeau and several hours later came to the confluence of the Mississippi and the Ohio.  The contrast in water color where the two meet is very apparent--the Ohio appearing to be blue to the Mississippi's brown.  The tow traffic at the confluence is extremely heavy.  Our chartplotter was filled with AIS targets.

Part of the mural on the flood wall at Cape Girardeau.

(Reminder: you can enlarge the pictures by clicking on any picture.)