Sunday, September 29, 2013

The Mighty Mississippi

Three generations enjoying the ride
Kelsey, Missy, Judy
 Saturday, Sept. 20, Ron and Sue Burlison took the car ferry to Grafton to visit.  They drove us to Aerie's Winery high on a bluff overlooking the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi. The weather was perfect and the view was beautiful.
At Aerie's Winery
Rich, Sue, Ron, Tom, Missy, Kelsey, Judy, Gordon

What a view!
We left Grafton around 1 p.m. for the short (17 mile) run to Alton.  We really started to smell home when we reached the Mississippi River.  Sue and Ron decided to join us for this leg, so we had a crew of nine.  The bluffs around Alton are gorgeous as are the homes that sit on top of them.
Sue Burlison in "queen bee" seat.

Alton Bluffs

Raydiance turned over to crew
Ron, Gordon, Rich

Stately homes atop Alton bluffs
Judy pointed out the painting of the Piasa, according to Indian legend a large fierce bird capable of eating men.  The original painting was on a cliff destroyed during mining years ago.  The new painting is just north of Alton by the railroad tracks.
Piasa painting

Arriving at Alton, we found several loopers in port including Free at Last and Sun Gypsy. An environmental fair was in progress at the park next door.  We enjoyed the exhibits and,of course, the kettle corn.
Barred Owl at the fair
Royce and Gail Lemar from Farmington, who keep their boat part-time at Alton, arrived late afternoon and we went to dinner at MAC's in downtown Alton.  They are hoping to begin their loop in the next few years. Alton's marina has a great reputation among loopers and it is well deserved. The view of the suspension bridge from the marina at night is spectacular!
Alton Bridge at night

Sunday morning a St. Louis crew consisting of Kevin and Tina Kilpatrick and Dan and Julie Garland, friends of Rich and Missy's, arrived to ride with us to Hoppies.  They provided wonderful beverages, snacks and lunch as well as being delightful company.  Again we had a beautiful day to cruise past the St. Louis riverfront.
Confluence of Mississippi and Missouri Rivers

Helmswoman Kelsey
being advised by Dad, Rich

St. Louis Crew passing the Arch
(Thanks to John Benckenstein
aboard buddy boat, After Taxes,
for the photo)

Dan, Missy, Julie, Tina, Kevin

Another milestone 
We arrived at Hoppies around 3 p.m.  Hoppies is a "marina" near Kimmswick.  Actually it is a group of anchored barges, but it is the only stop along this part of the river.  They provide fuel, electric, water and a safe tie-up.  And they are only a mile from the Blue Owl, a restaurant featuring amazing pies including the levee high apple pie (as featured on Paula Deen's show).  Who could ask for more?  Wonderful Farmington friends, Linda and Jerry Roberts, Carla and Frank Taylor and David and Alice Johnson,  drove up to have cocktails and wish us well for the last leg of the journey. Dennis and Dorothea Kehm, who live in nearby Festus, joined us also.   David and Alice came aboard here and will stay with us to cross our wake.
Carla, Dorothea,Donna,Cathy and Tom

David, Frank, Alice, Linda, Carla and Jerry
enjoying the plush atmosphere of Hoppies on the River

Hoppies
That evening, a slide show about the history of steamboats in the area was presented to the boaters in the "recreation center", a.k.a. the shack on the last barge.  The program was actually very interesting.  Hoppies is not far off the channel and when tows go by, especially upbound, the boats really rock.  We made sure to have plenty of fenders out.

Monday morning we headed down our home waters--the Mississippi south of St. Louis.  The current there is very strong-- adding 5 mph to our progress.  Here are some of the sights along the river.
Camping on a Mississippi sandbar

Kennett's Castle which has hosted
the likes of Dick Cheney
Check it out on the internet.

Herd of deer grazing

Poor old Ste. Genevieve harbor
now completely silted in

Fall color beginning to show
in the trees on the limestone bluffs

Holcim Cement Plant
one of the largest in the world

Interesting homes on the bluffs

Infamous Mississippi whirlpools

Plattin Rock Boat Club
Our Mississippi River club

River gauge

Tower Rock
We anchored for the night behind an L-shaped wing dam at mile marker 78.  When we arrived four other boats were already anchored.  After Taxes rafted with us in order to save space. Thank heavens for a calm night because swing room was tight!  Not a picturesque anchorage, but secure. The next morning we had a mess of drift between our boats.
Yuck!
Tuesday morning we continued downriver keeping our eye on the weather radar as we were approaching a storm.  We passed Cape Girardeau and several hours later came to the confluence of the Mississippi and the Ohio.  The contrast in water color where the two meet is very apparent--the Ohio appearing to be blue to the Mississippi's brown.  The tow traffic at the confluence is extremely heavy.  Our chartplotter was filled with AIS targets.
Part of the mural on the flood wall at Cape Girardeau.

(Reminder: you can enlarge the pictures by clicking on any picture.)









Friday, September 27, 2013

Chicago to Grafton

Missy and Rich
Trump tower in background
Beautiful Wrigley Building
With Missy and Rich Ray aboard, we left Chicago on Monday, Sept. 16th, in the company of After Taxes and Loop Dreams.  The wind was howling, but once we made the turn around the inner breakwater we  only had to go a short distance to reach the Chicago lock.  The lines in the lock need to be at least 5 feet longer and with the strong wind, holding onto them was a challenge. Once through the lock, we were in the calm water of the Chicago River and again enjoyed the view of Chicago coming to life in the morning.
Loop Dreams and After Taxes
going under low bridges on Chicago River
Must be able to clear 17 feet
to traverse the Chicago River route.

Water taxi waiting for passengers
from the train station.

Leaving the beautiful scenery of downtown Chicago, we entered the industrial Chicago Ship and Sanitary Canal fondly referred to as “the twelve miles of hell”.  No wake speed and frequent waits are required as barges are loaded and being fleeted throughout. 
Fleeting--putting barges together
to make tows.  No room to pass.

Chinese characters on the storage bins.

Confluence of the Chicago Ship and
Sanitary Canal and the Calumet Sag
We arrived at Lockport Lock around 4 p.m. and had to wait over an hour.  When we did get in, we needed to raft alongside After Taxes as several of the bollards were inoperable.  Upon leaving the lock, After Taxes port prop was vibrating badly—an indication it had probably picked up something in the lock.  We were planning to go farther, but with this issue and a long delay at the next lock, we chose to stay at the Joliet wall for the night.  Terrapin had been there the night before without incident and decided to stay with us.  Tom donned dive gear and plunged into the disgusting brown water to find a thick yellow tow line wrapped around After Taxes’ prop.  The rest of us sat around with drinks to watch the show and give moral support. 
Cathy holding the huge line
retrieved from After Taxes prop

John helping Tom prepare to dive

Ladies enjoying the show
Cathy had a friend in the area who took them to a grocery.  Upon return with bags of groceries in both hands, Cathy’s foot caught on a chain and she almost fell between their boat and the extremely rough wall.  John pulled her into the boat, but she banged up her knee and was quite shaken.  Luckily nothing was broken or sprained, just mighty sore.   We ended the evening with a Ray domino challenge, brothers vs. wives.  Women victorious.  Notice a pattern???

Tuesday morning we were up at the crack of dawn to catch a reported early locking at Brandon Road.  As Loop Dreams pulled away from the wall, their gear cable jammed in forward causing them to remain behind for repairs.    The rest of us arrived at the lock only to find a two hour delay.  While we performed the lock-waiting dance, we met new loopers, Craig and Kathy aboard Northern Star.  They started their loop at Manitowoc  one week ago and chose to join our fleet. 
Northern Star
Circling with Northern Star
while waiting for the lock to open
The second lock of the day, Marseilles, had “mechanical issues”, so we had a substantial wait there also.  Around 6 p.m. we pulled into the marina at Starved Rock State Park.   The Illinois River is very low (following a record flood this spring) and many of the marinas do not have enough depth for us.  This one was barely acceptable with less than 5 feet.  We draw 3 ½ to 4 feet, so we cleared although we kicked up plenty of mud.  Terrapin draws 4 ½ and got hung up on her first docking attempt, but captain Tom Rea backed her off and we found a slip that could accommodate her. (The marina staff was gone by the time we arrived.)  Our boats were so close to the bottom that we stirred up the Asian carp and sent them into a leaping frenzy.  The water was boiling with them.  One even landed on the docks and flopped around until he managed to fall back into the water. Later we were told that the week before 6,000 had been netted in that marina.  We see them frequently jumping in our wakes or along the shore as we travel down the river.
Duck blinds are a common sight
on the Illinois River

An attempt to keep the Asian carp out
of Lake Michigan.  This barrier is close
to Chicago.
Although Starved Rock Marina was satisfactory, we would go into Heritage Harbor (12 miles upriver) in the future.  Somehow we missed it in the guidebooks.  After Taxes generator is acting up, so they have ordered a new water pump that will hopefully be delivered Thursday morning.
 
Dinner at IVY
Starting with Missy and going around the circle:
Missy, Rich, Donna, John, Ken, Barb, Craig, Kathy, Tom, Cathy, Gary
Wednesday taskmaster Tom called the lock and was told we could be through if we arrived in 45 minutes.  So we hustled, arrived in plenty of time and waited another 2 hours.  We have been less than happy with the Illinois lockmasters.  But the good news was that while we were waiting,  Loop Dreams caught up.  We traveled to Peoria where everyone but Terrapin stayed at Illinois Valley Yacht Club.  Terrapin went on to the downtown docks as their draft was questionable for IVY.  Missy and Rich were generously offered the use of a car from a member to get some necessary supplies.  Dinner for 13 was enjoyed at the yacht club.  Unfortunately, Loop Dreams experienced shifting issues again upon entering the marina.  They will have to lay up a few more days to get a new cable ordered and installed.  Bummer!
After Taxes squeezing out of lock

Terrapin leaving lock between wall and barges.
After Taxes’ generator part arrived before 8 Thursday morning, so we topped off with fuel and left around 9:30.  Amazingly,  the lockmaster at Peoria allowed us to lock down in between two sections of a double tow which greatly shortened our wait. Between Peoria and Grafton, the possible anchorages were too shallow at this time of the year.  We ended up tied to barges at Logston Tow Service (about 80 miles downriver from Peoria) that evening. 
Logston Tow Service.  Any port in a storm!
A lack of communication led to part of our crew at one restaurant and the rest at another for dinner.  Later in the evening, a thunderstorm rocked us, but we were securely tied down.
Along the Illinois River, we turned 9000 miles.  Whew!
Friday we left early and arrived at Grafton Marina late afternoon.  All of us were ready for the comforts of a deep marina.  Grafton’s very nice marina fit the bill!  The crew of Aurora, a 22 foot sailboat, was there celebrating their loop completion.  An amazing feat in a boat that size!!  World traveler, Kelsey Ray, arrived with Missy’s mother, Judy, and friend, Gordon.  Kelsey will ride with us to Hoppies, while Judy and Gordon will ride until Alton.  After our long days on the river, we were all too tired to walk to town so we enjoyed pizza on the restaurant deck at the marina.
Kelsey hugging fabric
wrapped tree in Grafton
Brothers aboard
Tom and Rich