The Dismal Swamp

Meeting up with Passport in Elizabeth City

WWII blimp hanger just inside Elizabeth River

Monument to the Rose Buddy

Welcome to Elizabeth City  free dock

   In the center of the Albemarle Sound we needed to decide whether to take the fast route through Coinjack or the slower, more scenic route through the Dismal Swamp.    Well, with a name like that, how could we resist?  So off we headed to Elizabeth City and the start of the swamp.  Elizabeth City offers boaters free dockage downtown and in the past, had a tradition of bringing a rose to the "admiral" on each boat.  Sadly that tradition has faded when the founding rose buddies passed away.  But it is a boater friendly town and we chanced to meet John and Mary (aboard Passport) at dinner that night.  They were staying at a dock across the river.  We had not seen them since the Tenn-Tom.  They also were leaving the next day (Tuesday, May 8 ) to begin the Dismal Swamp adventure so we traveled with them.

Heading into the Dismal Swamp

We knew we were heading north when
the Canadian geese started showing up!

Typical view in the swamp

Interesting floating vegetation that
ripples in our wake.

There are two locks in the Dismal Swamp.  Neither has a very large drop/rise--maybe 8 feet.  The lockmaster puts the boats through the lock and then jumps in his pick-up to go to the nearby lift bridge to open it.

Lift bridge after the lock

 I took this picture to show that there is just enought room in the canal for two boats to pass.  Immediately after I took the picture the woman on the trawler called and asked if I would email a copy of it to her.  They had purchased their boat two days prior and she was thrilled to have a picture of it going through the swamp.

Just enough room for two boats to pass.

We spent the night at the visitor's center.  Somehow I had thought this was a visitor center strictly for boats.  Was I surprised when I realized it was an actual highway visitor center.  The four lane highway runs next to the canal.  You can hear the cars at times, but cannot see them through the dense foliage.  The dock only has room for three or four boats our size, so rafting is common.  You can see Passport rafting with us in the picture below.  Lore has it that 25 boats rafted here at one time taking up the entire width of the canal (which works because the lock's last opening is 3 p.m.)

There is a state park across the drawbridge which tells the history and biology of the swamp.  Very interesting and well done.  We hoped to hike the boardwalk path, but it started to rain and then pour.  Not all bad as the rain washes the salt off the boat!

John, Mary and Tom on the boardwalk path.

Inside the Dismal Swamp State Park  Museum

Rafting with Passport at the Visitor's Center

Highway beside the swamp

Dock at the visitor's center.

On Thursday, we decided to take a dinghy side-trip up a feeder creek to Drummond Lake.  Before the lake we had to put the dinghy on a railroad lift to get around a small dam-- an interesting and somewhat hazardous process.  When we arrived at Drummond Lake (which is a good sized lake but shallow) the wind was howling up whitecaps.  After getting splashed with chilly water, we quickly turned around and headed back to the canal.

preparing to load

the all important button pusher

loading

centering

unloading

It's free.

John, you forgot us!

Getting to the last lock for the 1:30 opening, we found several others waiting.  But there was room for all of us.

John waiting to lock down.

Hurry up and wait!

Waiting for the lock to open

Leaving the lock meant leaving the Dismal Swamp behind. We were glad we made the choice to take this path.  Now we are on to Norfolk where we will meet the Johnsons.