Saturday, December 31, 2011

Key West and Dry Tortugas

Sunset at Mallory Square
Greetings from Key West.  We have been here since the 17th and will be staying until at least the 5th.  Sarah came in on the 19th and spent ten days with us that flew by.  We walked miles in old Key West seeing the sights--sunsets at Mallory Square (always a show with the street performers), shopping on Duval Street, several trips to West Marine (I think Tom has visited that store at every stop.  I recommend buying stock!), the Mel Fischer Museum, the lighthouse and southern most point in the 48 states.  On top of all that we tested many of the wonderful restaurants.  One very memorable meal was breakfast at Blue Heaven where the lobster eggs benedict is sinful!   John and Kib Michener, long time friends from St. Louis who happened to be in Key West on the 20th  and 21st, met up with us there and at dinner.  Was great to be able to spend time with them.
Resident at Blue Heaven.  Click to enlarge and check out the chick peeking out from under  mama's right wing.


We headed out to the Dry Tortugas to visit Fort Jefferson on Friday, the 23rd.  Fort Jefferson was built in the 1830's, a massive structure constructed of 16 million bricks and granite spiral staircases.  While it was occupied, it was never really used as a defensive fortress.  It is most famous as the Civil War prison where Dr. Mudd, who treated John Wilkes Booth for his broken leg following Lincoln's assassination, was sentenced.  The tour of the fort is fascinating.  Walking around the top (one mile total) provides incredible views and quite a feeling of isolation.  We anchored in the harbor for two windy nights.
Fort Jefferson on Garden Key

Tom and Linda standing on the top of Fort Jefferson.  Raydiance a tiny speck in the harbor.
 The second day we motored over to Loggerhead Key, tied to a mooring ball ( a challenge with windy conditions) and dinghyed to the island.  We spent the day snorkeling.  Great fun.  "We" now includes a fourth, Mike Lawrence, a young man Sarah has met here.  He and his parents are from the outer banks in North Carolina and they are spending the month in Key West as this is the slow time in their business. He was game to come out on the trip to the Tortugas.  We enjoyed his company.   
Lighthouse on Loggerhead Key
A close-up of the coral "sand"
One of the highlights of the trip to the Tortugas was a visit to our boat by five good-size nurse sharks.  We first noticed them the night Sarah and Mike dinghyed back from the fort after sunset.  They kept us company the whole time we were at anchor.  Way cool.
Nurse shark under boat at Garden Key harbor--Fort  Jefferson

The trip back from the Tortugas was BUMPY.  The forecast 2-3 foot seas overnight turned into 4-6 footers.  We were  pounding into them.  Between the ride and constant watch for crab pots ( two new four letter words!) we were all glad to reach a marina and tie up for the night.

For the last few days we have been at a marina on Stock Island, the next island east from Key West.  It has a resort feel and Mike and Sarah have enjoyed the pool and kayaking-though they prefer the night life atmosphere of old town.  Sarah left yesterday and I miss her already.  I'm hoping it's a mild winter in the midwest so she will get a spring break and be able to join us around Easter.
View from restaurant at Key West Harbour Yacht Club on Stock Island

Sarah and Mike

Happy New Year everyone!


Thursday, December 15, 2011

Tarpon Springs to Marco Island

A great picture taken by Tom.  This dolphin swam alongside the boat for  several minutes.
The last week has been so interesting and very diverse.  After two days and three nights of totally indulging in Greek food and drink,  we left Tarpon Springs and headed to Longboat Key--a barrier island west of Tampa Bay.  The dolphins are a daily sighting.  I am always thrilled to spot them.

Tom on trail on Cayo Costa.
We spent the night at anchor in a bay off Longboat Key and headed to Cayo Costa (Cay of the Coast) Island the next day.  Cayo Costa State Park is located here and we had a wonderful day exploring.  We took the dinghy to shore and hiked the island trail to the beach.   This was the first chance we have had to walk the beach  and enjoy the water and sand between our toes.  Still not quite swimming temperature, but getting there!  We found some shells and brought them back to the boat to decorate our 18" Christmas tree.  The ranger told us that we could take the dinghy over to a small bayou and possibly see manatee.  We rowed in the bayou so as not to scare or harm them and we did see at least two.  It was very hard to snap a picture as they surface for only a short time, but Tom managed to get at least the shape.  As we entered the bayou, we heard all kinds of splashing.  We of course thought this was the manatee, but it turned out to be jumping fish called black mullets.  They were amazing.  Often jumped straight up in the air 2 to 3 feet or spurted out in 3 consecutive leaps.  It was hard to concentrate on the manatee bubbles with all their commotion.
Yes!!!!!
Christmas aboard Raydiance.

There really is a manatee there.
The anchorage at Cayo Costa was very scenic, but VERY windy.   We were happy to leave the next day and head to a marina, Burnt Store Marina,  outside of Punta Gorda.  There we were visited by Dan Garland, a friend of brother Rich's who happened to be in the area on business.  Terry and Karen Swark came to see us and we enjoyed catching up with them over dinner.  Tom served on the boy scout board with Terry when Terry was the council scout executive of the Boy Scout Council of Greater St. Louis. 

Raydiance at Burnt Store Marina

We learned a valuable lesson while traveling to this marina.  We were following lat/long coordinates in a guide book that led us to the channel entrance.  Our navigation charts did not name the entrance for Burnt Store, so we just assumed (never a good idea) that these were the correct numbers.  When we reached depth readings of less that 5 feet, we called the marina to ask about their channel and were informed to GET OUT OF THERE as we were in a very shallow channel about a mile too far north.  Luckily, Tom maneuvered us back out and all ended well.  But next time we will call the marina to verify the coordinates.

We are now anchored in Smokehouse Bay in Marco Island.  We are not in Kansas anymore!  Whew!  This place is beautiful and shouts money, money, money.  The weather has been partly sunny and around 80 degrees.  Life is good!  Saturday we leave for Key West.  Sarah flies in on Monday.  Will be great to have her with us for Christmas.  Merry Christmas to all of you!!

The Esplanade area of Marco Island

View from our anchorage at Marco Island


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Thursday, December 8, 2011

Crossing the Gulf

The greeter at Tarpon Springs docks.
WE DID IT!  We safely crossed the Gulf of Mexico and are at port at the city docks in Tarpon Springs. The weather windows for crossing have been few and far between this season, so we took the leap on a moderately okay day.  We anchored behind Dog Island just off the coast from Carrabelle Monday night and left in the company of Frank and Cindy aboard the power cat Peacekeeper at 3 a.m.  Even with a 3/4 moon, it is mighty dark at 3 in the morning.  Eleven hours later we were tied up at Tarpon Springs.  The first half of the journey was bumpy as we were headed into 3 to 4 foot waves.  But about halfway, the seas became more friendly and by the time we were two hours out of Tarpon,  it was down to one footers and very welcome.  Sunrise was a beautiful sight that day.
Sunrise on the Gulf crossing.  This was taken through the wing doors.  The small dots are salt crystals.

Tarpon Springs is an interesting little town.  We are tied up at the city docks which are in the sponge section of town.  In the late 1800's, Greeks came here to harvest the sponges in the gulf.  They had the knowledge to gather the sponges by diving whereas prior to that it was done by raking with long poles while looking overboard from the boats through glass bottom buckets.  At one time there were 200 sponge boats working here.  Now there are many souvenir shops and lots of Greek restaurants.  We have definitely gorged on the Greek food and drink!  And of course, we are now in possession of several sponges as well as Greek cheese, olives, and wine.
Sponge boat at dock.  Notice the sponges threaded together.  After removing the membranes, this is how they were stored to dry and be out from underfoot on the boat.

Greek Orthodox church and school in the historic part of town.

Too funny.  Had to shoot this picture!
A storm blew in Wednesday afternoon with wind gusts well into the 30mph range.  We were mighty glad to be securely tied at a dock.  Today, Thursday, is sunny but still quite windy.  We are watching the wind/wave reports to see whether to move on or stay one more day.  Oh darn, more gyros for lunch!