Georgetown and Returning On the Exumas

On Tuesday, Feb. 7^th, we headed to our farthest south destination, Georgetown, on Great Exuma Island five miles north of the Tropic of Cancer.  The seas were kind and we had a smooth six hour run from an anchorage off Cave Cay the night before.  We found an anchorage right below “the monument” off of Stocking Island.  Georgetown and Stocking Island are separated by a mile wide sound called Elizabeth Harbor.  At peak in March,  500+ boats are estimated to be anchored there.  About 90% of them are sailboats.  Our size cruiser was rarely seen, although there were a few trawlers our size. 

Raydiance at anchor near monument hill.

Pink houses are a visual reference point
upon entering Elizabeth Harbor

Once certain the anchor was fast, we set off in the dinghy across Elizabeth Harbor to tour Georgetown and restock at the local market.    Grocery prices are sticker shock in the Exumas, but we have to remember everything has to be shipped in on “the mail boat” once a week.  The only items we needed were fresh fruit and veggies.  Things like potato chips at $7 a bag are passed by!

Beautiful Anglican Church in Georgetown

We made it!

Dinghy dock behind the market

The following day we again climbed into the trusty dinghy and ventured over to the infamous Chat and Chill Beach.  This area is the nucleus of activities for the cruisers.  Every morning at 8 on VHF channel 72 after the weather report the announcements for the day’s activities are broadcast.  Example:  Yoga on the beach at 8:30 (bring your own towel),  bridge, dominoes, and other games at 2 p.m.,  volleyball at 1 p.m., etc.   We have heard Georgetown referred to by some cruisers as adult daycare.  Following the announcements, new arrivals are asked to call in and tell about themselves.  I found it very interesting and even joined in a game of dominoes.

The infamous Chat and Chill 

Conch stand on Chat and Chill Beach

Hot domino game on Chat and Chill Beach

Fresh conch salad

That evening after sunset, we put the dinghy to work again and crossed to Georgetown to eat at the “Fish Fry”.  This is a group of shack-like restaurants on the waterfront serving local Bahamian dishes.  We each had a lobster dinner with the mandatory peas and rice, macaroni and cheese casserole and coleslaw. 

Atlantic side of Stocking Island

Sunset at Georgetown with Bill's flag

We left Georgetown on Friday, Feb. 10^th, and again the Sound was gentle—1 to 2  foot waves.  So Tom decided over deep water (3000+ feet) to try his hand at fishing once again.  Nothing happened for about an hour.  Suddenly the drag started screaming at him.  A big fish was hooked.  I slowed the boat to allow him to land the fish.  Tom fought it for about 10 minutes when all at once the fish seemed to give up.  As I held the line and Tom went to the platform to net the fish,  well, see the picture below.

Tom says he hooked a 3 1/2 foot wahoo, but only landed the “Wa”.  Apparently a hungry shark ate the “Hoo”.

Fish story #2

That night we caught a mooring ball off Little Farmer’s Cay.  The guys on the sailboat anchored next to us (named In Concert)  invited us to come to the settlement bar that night as they were going to be entertaining.  So we went in and enjoyed a concert of flute, guitar and tambourine.  The next day was quite windy, but we went up the Banks to Compass Cay Marina.  It is located in a very protected bay and with the weather changing to the north we opted to be at a dock.  With the wind howling and the current running strong, Tom did a great job of docking.  I am constantly amazed at his skill with the boat.  In  Concert pulled in a bit after we did and gave another concert that night.  Everyone joined in singing, playing spoons, shaking homemade sand instruments, etc.   This was following a potluck on the dock with lobster supplied by the neighbors (see pic below of the neighbor’s yacht!).  I provided lemon bars (Aldi’s special box mix) and they were a huge hit.

An ol" timer at Compass Cay

Compass Cay Marina

The neighbors!!!!

Crew of In Concert

The following day with the north  wind still howling,  I talked Tom into hiking to the “Bubble Bath”.   I must admit I didn’t realize the length of this hike.  It turned out to be LONG and strenuous--up and down over alternately soft sand then rough coral.  When we arrived at the Bubble Bath, it was too cool to go in the water.  And we thought we wouldn’t get enough exercise on this trip!

The Bubble Bath

Looking back to the start of THE HIKE
in the FAR distance!

That evening we invited the crew of Happy Ours to join us for dominoes.  Everyone had a good time, but especially the women’s team as we won handily!  They left the following day and told us to call when we got to Boston.  We have plans to enjoy an oyster dinner with them there.

Domino Players 

We left Compass Cay on Monday with plans to anchor at Hawksbill Cay for two night, then Norman Cay for two nights and then return to Nassau.  This all changed when the generator stopped working at Hawksbill.  Tom changed the impeller which was badly chewed up (how does he know how to do all this???), but it still wasn’t pulling any water through.  So we pulled anchor on Tuesday and came into Nassau, staying at Nassau Harbour View Marina.  Another couple two slips down saw our loop flag and came to say hello.  They had done the loop in 2001 (boat name-Whichaway).  Tom was telling Chuck about the generator issue and Chuck said he thought he had a solution.  A little silicone gel for suction and a few more pieces of old impeller removed and the generator is back in business.  Again, the kindness of strangers.  We plan to start back to the states tomorrow, Friday the 17^th.  What a great adventure this has been!

Last Exuma sunset

Chart showing our trip from Bimini to Georgetown in the Exumas

What a beautiful way to end a trip!